How to Taste Bourbon Like a Pro

Kentucky bourbon is bigger than ever. Of course, 95% of the world’s bourbon is made here in the Commonwealth, as is 100% of the bourbon that’s worth talking about. It’s an $8.6 billion dollar industry that generates over 20,000 jobs for Kentuckians. Bourbon impacts every Kentuckian. But, no matter how hot the industry is, I’ve noticed that there are plenty of Kentuckians who are still a little scared to drink bourbon. It’s a question I get fairly often from blog readers and social media followers: How do I get started with tasting bourbon?

As a bourbon writer, I’ve had the incredible opportunity to attend tastings led by some of the most interesting names in bourbon. I’ve watched the legendary Fred Noe of Jim Beam demonstrate his “Kentucky Chew” technique, participated in an intensive sensory tasting session led by Elizabeth McCall and Chris Morris of Woodford Reserve, the masters of (click here for information on how you can attend Woodford Reserve Tasting Academy, which I promise you’ll want to attend!), and been among the very first media members to sample the most recent Angel’s Envy offerings. I’ve picked up a few tasting tips along the way, and I want to share them with y’all.

Setup:

Now, it’s great if you have the opportunity to go to a tasting led by a professional. If you’re in Louisville, there are great classes at Westport Whiskey and Wine. Lexington and Louisville both have fantastic classes at Total Wine and More. And, of course, there are tasting opportunities on all of the distillery tours. But, it’s also pretty cool to setup a tasting at home, so you can learn about your own palate as well as your friends’ and family’s.

Step 1: Select your Whiskey.

If you’re going to have a whiskey tasting, you’ll want to select a whiskey. Now, many Kentucky distilleries produce a bourbon and a rye. These are both types of whiskey, and can be produced using the same equipment. Absolutely NOTHING marks you as an amateur quicker than calling a rye whiskey a “bourbon.” If you take one thing away from this blog post, please remember that. The main difference is the grain content. Bourbon whiskey must have a recipe, known as a mash bill, of 51% corn or higher, while the mash bill of rye is at least 51% rye. I find that, when selecting whiskeys to taste, it’s good to pick a theme. I often go by distiller. When sampling the new Old Forester Rye, I tried it against the Old Forester Signature Bourbon, as well as the Woodford Reserve Rye, as these were all produced under the supervision of the same Master Distiller, Chris Morris, under the two major Brown-Forman labels. Another easy starting point would be to try Maker’s Mark with Maker’s 46 or Woodford Reserve with Woodford Reserve Double Oaked. These comparisons will show you how the very same bourbon develops a different taste when finished in different barrels. You can also choose a flight consisting of one from different categories — wheated, high-rye bourbon, rye, etc. — to really see the differentiations. There is a great guide to hosting a tasting on the Kentucky Distillers Association website, and all of the major brands have really good information on their websites to help you learn about what you’ll be tasting before you buy.

Step 2: Set it up.

There really is no tasting glass like the glencairn for tasting. The tulip-shaped glass helps you experience the aroma of the bourbon as it’s supposed to be. If you don’t want to invest in tasting glasses just yet, you can use rocks glasses. Set up each tasting station in the same order, pouring about an ounce of whiskey into each glass. We’re not here to take shots or get drunk. The idea is to have enough juice in each glass to get an idea of how it tastes. Set your samples out in ascending proof order, so that a higher proof won’t overwhelm the flavors of a lower-alcohol spirit.

Step 3: Accoutrements

Turns out, you actually do need a few more things on hand for a bourbon tasting than just bourbon and glasses. Who knew, right?!?! You’ll need some good quality, flavor-neutral water. Here in Louisville, the best thing is actually our award-winning tap water, but to paraphrase Ina Garten, bottled water is fine. The water serves both as a palate cleanser and, if needed, for a drop or two to dilute the spirits. Sometimes, after the initial taste of the whiskey, it’s nice to add a little water (no more than a drop or two) to cut the proof and really dig into the flavor.

You’ll also want some crackers, bread, or popcorn to serve as a palate cleanser while tasting. And, although we’re limiting the amount of alcohol that’s being consumed in the tasting, you’ll want to have some appetizers or snacks on hand to offset the intoxicating effect. It’s also interesting to try some different food samples with your whiskey tasting to coax different flavors out of the drink. The Woodford Reserve flavor wheel tasting calls for aged parmesan, toasted hazelnut, dried cranberry, an orange slice, dark chocolate, and sorghum. I often make some substitutions when playing around with food pairings: I like Kerrygold Dubliner cheese rather than parmesan, and often use fresh or dried cherries and toasted pecans — these are just my taste preferences, and serve a similar purpose in drawing different notes out of any whiskey, not just the Woodford expressions.

Tasting

So here’s the thing. You honestly already have the only tools you need for a bourbon tasting: your own taste buds and curiosity. The most important thing here is taking the time to really be in touch with the sensory experience. Don’t let yourself fall into the trap of liking what you’ve heard is good, what “the experts” like, or what the people around you say is good. You know what you enjoy. You know if you like Brussels sprouts or red meat or chocolate cake, right? Well, bourbon is no different. Different people have different palates and enjoy different spirits. At the heart of it, that’s how the bourbon industry came to be.

Step 1: Color

The first thing you’ll notice when approaching your bourbon samples for tasting will be the color. The color actually does play a huge role in the tasting experience. The shade of amber of a particular whiskey will often be determined by its proof, age, and degree of barrel char. The above photo is a great illustration of how color predicts the character of a bourbon. Two Coopers’ Craft expressions were made from the exact same mash bill. The original Coopers’ Craft is an 82.2 proof, aged in charred barrels, while the Coopers’ Craft Barrel Reserve is 100 proof and has been aged in a specially chiseled barrel. Both of these factors impact the color of the bourbon, and give you the first clues about how it will taste. Predictably, the sample on the right, the 100 proof, has a far bigger and more complex flavor.

Step 2: Aroma

Your sense of smell has a huge impact on any food or drink that you taste. To get a full sense of a bourbon’s flavor, you should take the time to give it a good sniff before you taste it. Now, to the beginner, the first notes you’ll smell in any bourbon whiskey will probably be vanilla and caramel. These are characteristics of all bourbon whiskeys; they are the result of aging the spirit in charred oak barrels. Sometimes these notes linger beyond your first whiff, and they’re still pretty wonderful. As you smell the spirit, you’ll probably pick up on some other notes, too. These are the result of the specific yeast strains, grain varietals, barrel chars, maturation techniques, and everything else that goes into making a specific whiskey. Pay attention to what you smell. There are no wrong answers. I find that most of the Brown-Forman brands have a really strong pear note. Maker’s Mark expressions smell like creme brûlée. Explore the aroma for yourself and note how smells you enjoy play into flavors you like. If a whiskey has a strong raisin note and you hate raisins, then you’re probably not going to enjoy that spirit. Also, it’s very interesting to see how different conditions — a hot or cold day, how you’re feeling, etc. — play into the aroma you experience for a whiskey. It’s very common to smell something different in the same whiskey on a different day, even for folks who have a highly trained and developed palate.

Step 3: Taste

We’ve spent a lot of time getting to this point, haven’t we. Especially since the goal was supposed to be tasting a whiskey. Well, here we are.

Take a sip. See how it tastes on different parts of your tongue. Really think about the flavors you’re pulling out of the whiskey. Pay attention to your initial, emotional responses. Maker’s Mark always tastes like Christmas to me, both because of its elegant caramel and vanilla notes, but also because of the sensory memory of my great-aunt’s bourbon balls, which she always made with Maker’s Mark. You may sense a nutty flavor or a fruity note; subsequent sips or dilution with water will probably help you figure out what kind of nut or fruit. . If you’re tasting with other folks, you may hear them talk about notes that you absolutely do not taste; this is absolutely normal. There are usually some big notes that everyone experiences, and then other flavors that are way more about the bourbon’s impact on the individual. Some of the most experienced Master Distillers and Master Tasters and bourbon pros I’ve ever met will tell you the same thing: There is no right or wrong way to taste, and everyone picks up on a little something different. Trust your palate and your experience more than reviews, price point, or prestige. I promise this will make you a happier bourbon drinker.

Step 4: Finish

Think about the flavor the whiskey leaves in your mouth after you swallow (or spit) it. Maybe there’s a cinnamon note, or citrus fruit. It’s the final impression of the whiskey, and it often is a little more complex than the first taste.

Step 5: Record it

So, this is totally optional, but I find that the best way to develop my taste in bourbon is to keep a tasting notebook. I use this one, which is popular among the bullet journal crowd. I find that keeping my notes organized helps me to really compare flavors and experiences. I can look back on what I tasted in a specific whiskey and see if I taste the same notes again. It’s a great way to help me recall what I’ve tasted and what flavors I’ve tasted. If you’re interested in taking up bourbon tasting as a semi-serious hobby, I recommend journaling it.

Cheers, y’all! Let me know in the comments if you’ve ever done a bourbon tasting at home or at a distillery!!

Angel's Envy Oloroso Sherry Cask Finish Bourbon Review

Last week, I attended a media preview and tasting of the latest release from Angel’s Envy: Oloroso Sherry Cask Finish Bourbon. Angel’s Envy is one of those small, family-owned whiskey labels that has a cult following — fans love the unique bourbon and rye whiskeys finished respectively in port wine or rum barrels to provide a gently altered flavor profile. The limited release Oloroso Sherry Cask Finish was a pretty big deal to bourbon geeks: it was the first new Angel’s Envy expression produced since 2013, and the first to be produced without the guidance of famed patriarch and Master Distiller Lincoln Henderson.

A mural at the entry of Angel’s Envy pays tribute to legendary distiller Lincoln Henderson

Lincoln Henderson was the Master Distiller for Brown-Forman for 40 years; he created the Woodford Reserve and Gentleman Jack expressions while at B-F. Lincoln retired in 2004, but by 2006 his son Wes persuaded him to come out of retirement work on a new, family-owned distillery project. The result was Angel’s Envy, a name paying humorous homage to the fabled “angels’ share”, the portion of the whiskey that evaporates in the warehouse each year. Mr. Henderson passed away in 2013 at the age of 75; Wes Henderson and his sons Kyle and Andrew continue to run the family business with an eye toward their patriarch’s vision.

Henderson Family Tree

Wes and Kyle Henderson sample new make.

After a quick tour of the distillery, Wes and sons Andrew and Kyle treated our media group to the first “outsiders’” taste of the new, limited edition bourbon expression, Angel’s Envy Oloroso Sherry Cask Finish.

Tasting Notes:

Proof: 100

Nose: Raisin and New Oak

Taste: Sherry, Raisin, and Hazelnut with a secondary toffee note.

Finish: Oak and Floral

This is a really unique expression. I LOVED the nose on this. It was this gorgeous raisin and oak scent that felt like a storybook holiday. The sherry definitely came through on the initial taste; we were told that Oloroso is a drier sherry, specifically chosen to keep the whiskey balanced and not overly sweet. I could see this making a really sophisticated and subtle Manhattan.

This is a very limited run of 3,600 bottles at $199 each. The whiskey will be available at the Angel’s Envy Distillery Store in downtown Louisville and distributed to a handful of Louisville area liquor stores. Public sales will begin on February 15th at 8 am; you can add your name to the VIP Access list by joining the Angel’s Envy 500 Main Club.

Bourbon & Boweties Bourbon Barrel Bangle available exclusively at Sweet Mash Goods.

After the tasting and lunch, we were treated to a cocktail class with Finishing Room Bar manager Mike Bohn. Mike was so knowledgeable about the history of cocktails and the best ways to coax flavors out of the whiskey. You can sign up here for your own cocktail class.

Thanks so much to Angel’s Envy for the opportunity to sample this new expression!

Old Forester Rye Whisky Review

{I was provided a press sample of Old Forester Rye in advance of release. All opinions are my own.}

I don’t know when I’ve so pumped about a whiskey release, y’all. When I heard about Old Forester’s new 100 proof Rye release, I was so, so excited. Old Forester Signature (100 Proof) is one of my all-time favorite bourbons, and I love what Master Distiller Chris Morris and Master Taster Jackie Zykan are doing to create new riffs on Brown-Forman’s flagship line.

I set up a tasting flight to sample the Rye, both for comparison and to take an opportunity to revisit two of my favorite Brown-Forman pours. Along with the Rye sample, I tasted Old Forester 100 and Woodford Reserve Rye. Both Rye expressions have a lower percentage of rye in their mash bill — 53% for the Woodford and 65% for the Forester — while many other brands use up to 90% rye in their rye whiskey. The Woodford Rye is one we reach for frequently at my house; Bob especially likes it to balance out the sweetness in Old-Fashioneds or Whiskey Sours.

Tasting Notes:

I started with the Old Forester Signature as a baseline. As I said earlier, I love this one as a sipper.

• Proof: 100

• Nose: initial notes of brown sugar and caramel, opening up to butterscotch and oak.

• Taste: apple & baking spice

• Finish: apple & clove

Y’all, I love this bourbon. It’s versatile in cocktails and wonderful as a sipper. It’s at a fabulous price point, and it plays such an important role in Louisville’s bourbon legacy. Everyone should have this on their bar.

I moved on to Woodford Reserve Rye to switch over from a bourbon mashbill to a rye. I know that opinions on this one are fairly divisive, but I’m a fan.

• Proof: 90.4

• Nose: initial notes of rye and black pepper; as it opens, there’s a fruity depth and a buttery warmth.

• Taste: spice, rye, & sorghum

• Finish: apple

Moving from the robust 100 proof of Forester bourbon to the Woodford Rye was certainly noticeable. The lower proof does allow the buttery depth of the whiskey to open up a little more. I love the way this whiskey inverts both bourbon and rye mash bills as a spicy riff on Woodford Reserve’s bourbon expression.

These two favorites set up some pretty stiff expectations for the Old Forester Rye. I was pretty happy to see that this big whiskey lived up to my big expectations.

• Proof: 100

• Nose: starts out spicy, reminiscent of those cinnamon red-hot candies, before opening up to a buttery depth and notes of banana bread

• Taste: rye grain, pear

• Finish: peppery with a hint of lemon

I tasted this new against two of my go-to whiskies, and it did not disappoint. It certainly brings that fruit note that is prevalent across the entire Brown-Forman portfolio. The higher proof and spicier rye note differentiates this from both its bourbon sibling and its Woodford cousin. At $23 for a 750 ml, you should definitely have this on hand for both sipping and mixing. I think it would make a really nuanced Manhattan.

Drink More Whiskey Tee available at The Bitter Southerner General Store.

Old Forester Rye certainly lived up to my expectations. It manages to be at once unique and familiar, complimenting the 150 year-old Old Forester line in a smart and thoughtful manner.

(Editorial note: I use the American “whiskey” with an e in everyday usage. Brown-Forman rocks the boat by labeling Old Forester products with the Scottish “whisky” moniker, while their Woodford Reserve line is “whiskey”.)

Woodford Reserve Kentucky Straight Malt Whiskey

During Derby week, I had the amazing opportunity to visit the Brown-Forman suite at Churchill Downs for a day of bourbon and horse racing. Seriously, who could turn down that combo? 

The Woodford Reserve Suite at Churchill Downs. Shop the Draper James Throw here.

The tasting event was held on the Wednesday before Derby, a day which I hope never gains a nickname as "cute" as Thurby, and which still retains the charm of a locals' day at the track. As Woodford Reserve Master Distiller Chris Morris and Assistant Master Distiller Elizabeth McCall poured cups for tasting, we learned that a group of bourbon media professionals had been assembled for the first tasting of Woodford's new Kentucky Straight Malt Whiskey, a product which will be available for purchase in some markets as early as next month.

If you ever have the chance to attend a Woodford Reserve whiskey tasting, you owe it to yourself to participate. The Woodford team puts so much care into the details -- whether they're doing the signature flavor wheel food pairing exercise or a comparative whiskey tasting, as we experienced on this occasion. Mr. Morris took care to explain that all four expressions in the brand's whiskey  portfolio -- Woodford Reserve Bourbon, Woodford Reserve Double Oaked, Woodford Reserve Rye, and Woodford Reserve Malt -- were comprised of the same three grains: corn, rye, and malted barley and are bottled at 90.4 proof. Of course, the percentage of grains in the individual mash bills as well as the special finishing process in the case of Double Oaked are what produce such distinct flavors in the different distillates.

We started with the original WR expression, the bourbon as a baseline spirit for tasting. We followed with my favorite expression in Woodford's portfolio, Double Oaked. The Double Oaked is traditional Woodford juice that, upon maturation has been finished in a second charred oak barrel. This produces more of the sweet caramel notes for which the brand is famous. I love this one as a sipping whiskey or as an after-dinner "dessert" drink, as it has prominent brown sugar notes; it's sweet without ever becoming cloying.

Next on the tasting menu was Woodford Reserve Rye. This one is Bob's go-to cocktail whiskey; it makes a fine Manhattan, sour, or Old-Fashioned. It's peppery and earthy, but doesn't enter into the high-rye herbaceous "bite" that so many ryes often display.  We consider it the "house whiskey" of HerKentucky Headquarters; I love the idea that this rye whiskey is made from Brown-Forman's pre-Prohibition recipe.

Elizabeth McCall leads a tasting of Woodford Reserve whiskeys

Then it was time for a sip of the new malt product. This one was fascinating, y'all. It had a lot of the characteristics of traditional Woodford bourbon, but was somehow lighter. The nose was strong with notes of cherry and almond. The mouthfeel was quite different from any of the other whiskeys we tasted that day; I felt a strong evaporation on the front of my tongue, somewhere between the sweet and salty tasting zones. I think that the Straight Malt expression will make a really interesting whiskey for mixologists; it will create some unique cocktails!

Mr. Morris made the very important distinction that this whiskey is not to be considered in the class of single malt Scotch whiskeys, but rather it is an experimental expression of American whiskey. Elizabeth led us through the tasting notes, as you can see in the video below.

Elizabeth and I also had a chance to chat about some of our favorite Draper James pieces. She was featured on the brand's Love, Reese blog as part of the Real Women, Real Clothes series, and partnered with Draper James on her Derby Week looks. How perfect is that partnership? We posed for  a #draperjamesgirl photo as the event wrapped up.

Draper James Girls at the track. Shop Elizabeth's dress and my dress. (My fascinator is c/o Off Broadway Shoes and my necklace is from Elva Fields.)

Thanks so much to Woodford Reserve for an amazingly relaxing and educational Derby Week event! Cheers, y'all!