Hot, Hot Chicken: A Nashville Story by Rachel Louise Martin Book Review
A new book explores the socioeconomic and racial politics that brought us Nashville’s signature chicken dish.
Today is National Hot Chicken Day, which sounds like a holiday I want to celebrate at least once a week!
In recent years, Nashville’s hot chicken has evolved from a local delicacy to a bit of a phenomenon. When we lived in Nashville a decade or so ago, you didn’t hear a lot about it, other than the word-of-mouth that it existed and it was delicious; these days, chain restaurants like KFC and O’Charley’s offer up their own versions of “Nashville Hot Chicken” that sort of taste like the real thing.
As for the “real thing,” Bob and I love it. We find a way to pick up some chicken on every trip to Nashville, and we’ve attended the Hot Chicken Festival. But, to be honest, I hadn’t given a ton of thought to the origins of the iconic dish beyond the legend that Thornton Prince’s lady friend made some allegedly inedible cayenne-spiced chicken as payback for his dalliances, and it turned out delicious. Of course, I receive a lot of press releases in which marketers purport to know the origin of foods, the “original” bourbon distillers, and so on, so I take these origin stories with a bit of a grain of salt. Or, at least I did until I read the new book Hot, Hot Chicken: A Nashville Story by Rachel Louise Martin.
In Hot, Hot Chicken, Dr. Martin, a writer and Nashville native, sets out to learn why hot chicken has been a legendary dish for decades among Nashville’s Black community, but only gained notoriety in white Nashville relatively recently. The result is a fascinating history of the Prince family, soul food in the Mid-South, and the experiences of Black Nashvillians from the Reconstruction Era to the present day.
Dr. Martin’s painstaking research traces the Prince family through over a century of public records. She provides excellent insight into the zoning and segregation laws that created two distinct Nashvilles — one for Black people and one for white people — for so long. A particularly interesting anecdote arises in the 1950s when a group of white folks — musicians from the Grand Old Opry, including George Morgan (father of Lorrie Morgan) followed the delicious smell of Mr. Prince’s original Chicken Shack and attempted to order some for themselves. Soon the restaurant, previously frequented solely by Black diners, was forced to put up racially segregated dining rooms to comply with the Jim Crow laws. It’s a harsh reminder of the not-too-distant South.
Nashville Hot Chicken Festival, 2014
In recent years, there has been so much good work done towards setting the record straight on the role that Black Southerners played in creating the regional cuisine and beverages that are an integral part of the cultural identity of the Southeastern United States. These days, any serious whiskey enthusiast knows that Mr. Jack Daniel learned about distilling from Nathan “Nearest” Green. The study of Southern Foodways has expanded to acknowledge the role of enslaved cooks in creating the staple recipes of both Black and white Southern cooks. In Hot, Hot Chicken, Dr. Martin continues this important tradition by tracing hot chicken’s roots from the food served by enslaved cooks in plantation houses to the burgeoning soul food movement of the twentieth century. In the process, she produces an unflinching history of the city of Nashville.
Sophie and I enjoyed some hot chicken at Centennial Park, 2019
Hot, Hot Chicken is a must-read for anyone who loves the food and writing of Sean Brock and Vivian Howard, who wants to learn more about how Black Southerners shaped our cuisine, or anyone who, like me, just loves Nashville and its signature dish of hot chicken!
Royal's Hot Chicken
Nashville Hot Chicken done right in the Derby City!
My beau and I LOVE Nashville-style hot chicken. We make as many trips to the Music City as possible to feed our addiction. We've waited in line at the Hot Chicken Festival. And we've waited in line at Hattie B's more times than we can count. We take our chicken seriously.
So, we've been a little skeptical as hot chicken has made its way up I-65. Rumors that KFC and O'Charley's are test-marketing mass-produced versions of our beloved crispy, cayenne pepper-coated delicacy left us with more than a little trepidation. You can't get GREAT, authentic hot chicken outside of Nashville, can you?
Well, it turns out you can.
Royal's Hot Chicken hosted their soft opening over the weekend, so we took the opportunity to test their spin on Hot Chicken. (For those who've never tried hot chicken before, the legend goes back to Thornton Prince, whose ladyfriend wasn't happy with his "extracurricular" affairs. After a particularly late night, Thornton asked his girlfriend to fry him some chicken. Going for revenge, the girlfriend coated the fried chicken in cayenne pepper. Prince loved it, and 90 years later, his family-run hot chicken restaurant is a must-visit Nashville attraction.)
We had high expectations of Royal's, because of the care and expertise that owner Ryan Rogers puts into every item on his Feast BBQ concept. We went to Royal's expecting "very good"; we had no idea we'd be in for "great."
First, let me get it out of the way. The chicken is done right. Not "right for Kentucky." Not "right for someplace outside Davidson County, TN." It's just right. The meat is juicy. The breading is light and crispy. And the seasoning... Well, the seasoning reminded me of Prince's. That's a big compliment. It wasn't a sauce; it was a heavy coating of chili powders and pan drippings. It was deliciously spicy without any acidic aftertaste. When accompanied by a zingy house ranch dressing, it was just about perfect!
The sides were pretty amazing, too. Bob went with delicious cold sides -- the cole slaw and cucumber salad; these provided a great palate cleanser with his X-hot level tenders. I couldn't pass up the hot potato wedges or the pimento cheese grits. Both were amazing! The grits were so creamy, and the wedges were perfectly crisp with a fluffy center.
Next time, we plan to make room for soft serve ice cream or milkshakes. The cold desserts looked and sounded great, but we were stuffed after such a delicious meal!
Thanks to Royal's Hot Chicken for bringing real Nashville hot chicken to Louisville! We can't wait to visit again soon!
Royals Hot Chicken is located at 736 E. Market St., Louisville, KY 40202.
(502)919-7068
Open TUESDAY-THURSDAY 11:30AM-2:30PM, 5:00PM-9:00PM
Open FRIDAY 11:30AM-2:30PM, 5:00PM-10:00PM
Open SATURDAY, 11:30AM-10:00PM
CLOSED SUNDAY & MONDAY